Chemotherapy and Your Skin

Having to undergo chemotherapy is a challenge in itself but some of the drugs that are necessary to treat the cancer can bring their own set of challenges to the skin. According to Dermatology Times, November 5, 2014 review of a research report from the European Medical Journal Dermatology the new generation of anticancer drugs are more apt to cause skin reactions than their predecessors. In addition to hair loss and drying out of  mucous tissue, skin side effects can range from mild widespread dryness to severe debilitating issues.

Here are 5 key points:

*  Wide spread skin dryness and papulopustular rash (acne like) are known skin side effects of epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR) inhibitors.  These inhibitors include cetuximab, erlotinib, gefitinib, lapatinib, panitumumab.  EGFR eruptions do not have comedones, instead they present at a rash and their severity is related to improved tumor response and survival.

*A side effect called hand foot syndrome because it most commonly occurs on the palms of the hand and soles of the feet occurs in 30-60% of patients.  If you develop these symptoms be sure to advise your doctors so it can be managed.

In mild to moderate hand-foot syndrome, the following symptoms may occur on the palms of the hands and/or the soles of the feet:

Redness (similar to a sunburn)
Swelling
A sensation of tingling or burning
Tenderness (sensitive to touch)
Tightness of the skin
Thick calluses and blisters on the palms and soles

Symptoms of severe hand-foot syndrome include:

Cracked, flaking, or peeling skin
Blisters, ulcers, or sores on the skin
Severe pain
Difficulty walking or using the hands

*Paronychia, an infection that occurs around the nails, affects 10-30% of those receiving EGRF inhibitor therapy.

*Cranial radiation therapy and neuroleptic drugs, (antipsychotic drugs that are now being used to treat other disorders), can trigger a variety of skin rashes.

*Studies have shown that hydration, antimicrobials, sterile tissue, protective ointment, and specific dermatological therapies can reduce the side effects of chemotherapy and radiation therapy.   It is important to be aware of and manage skin dryness and see dermatologist if there are signs of peeling, blistering, bleeding or pain. Your dermatologist or  esthetician may be able to provide you with skin care products with ingredients that have been shown to be helpful in research studies.  These ingredients include: calendula, corticosteroids, topical sodium hyaluronate, urea and allantoin. Plain, non-scented, lanolin-free hydrophilic (water based hydrating) creams may help prevent radiation skin reactions.

Menopause and Your Skin

Menopause is a nasty word that no woman enjoys dealing with.  It is the time when the body transitions from having ovulation and the menstrual cycle to the complete cessation of this.  While for most of us loosing the ability to have more children at 50+ is not a big issue, the challenges we must endure as we go through this process are not so great.  Not only do we have to deal with hot flashes, nightsweats, poor sleep, hormonal imbalance triggering diminished sexual desire or discomfort during sex, mood swings, headaches, changes in hair growth patterns, and breakouts, but also what seems like a sudden aging appearance to the skin.

Actually, when you think about it, many of these symptoms are similar to PMS with hotflashes being the main difference. And some of the medical therapies are the same.  Know that if this is an issue you deal with You are NOT ALONE.  Women between 44 and 65 now make up America's largest demographic group.  By 2015 nearly one half of American women will be either menopausal or post menopause.  That's a rather staggering figure - sorry guys, not something you want to hear.  But with your help, we can deal with this. Its not just us average gals, its the celebrities and female politicians also.  Fortune Magazine in a recent report ran a cover story on the world's 100 most powerful women. If we use their ages as a guide, then 90% of them are menopausal.
  Side note:  6000 US women enter menopause every day with an average age of 51!

With menopause comes a loss of estrogen.  Unfortunately, appropriate levels of estrogen is what helps keep the skin young looking, our emotions in balance, and our libido interested in intimacy. With the loss of estrogen the skin tends to be more dry, there is an increase the development of wrinkles and loss of skin tone.  Women often note their skin seemed to suddenly age.  Its common to have hair loss both on the head and of the eyebrows.  While we can't stop the time clock, there are things we can do to improve the appearance of the skin.

1) Skin Care. Find a good, well trained esthetician who understands the problems and how to address them. A variety of facial treatments can be beneficial including microdermabrasion, chemical exfoliation, hydration and facial toning.  To improve the appearance of the skin it is important to exfoliate the dead skin cells off.  This process tends to slow down with menopause and the skin takes on a dull appearance. Exfoliation counteracts this.  Hydration improves the moisture in the surface layers of the skin. Facial toning helps give the face a subtle lift that just keeps getting better the longer it is done. I know women who have used Facial toning as their go to treatment for over a decade and they look far younger than the calender would indicate. The secret to success is think "series" instead of an occasional treatment, you will see much better results. Home use of mild AHAs or Retinols in skin care products plus incorporation of peptides and topical antioxidants generally give very impressive results. Use your esthetician as your "skin care coach" and get their recommendations to the exact products that will be the best for you.

2) If you want a quick fix, find a well qualified doctor who specializes in neurotoxin and filler therapy.  Botox is the most commonly recognized brand but there are others that are FDA approved.  This type of treatment requires redoing every few months, but many women (and men) find it gives them that mental boost and confidence that makes it well worth the expense.  Extend the life of your injections with the home care products mentioned above (AHA's or retinols, antioxidants and peptides as ingredients in your cosmetics.)  Facial toning also works to extend the life of your injections.

3) Light therapies do improve skin appearance.  IPL and laser can quickly improve the appearance of sun damage. Radio frequency can help sculpt. LED can help the skin perform better and self correct to appear younger and act healthier.  LEDs are very safe to use and have no contraindications except for those with epilepsy.  For laser and IPL the darker your skin tone, the more cautious you need to be as it can trigger post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

4) Hormone therapies are another way to fight back.  Many women and their doctors have been scared away from hormone therapy for long term use due to the problems with products like Premarin which is derived from processed pregnant mare urine.  This product was chosen due to the high level of hormones in it. But Premarin has many side effects. There seem to be alternative choices now available to physicians that are more specific with the hormones they choose to prescribe.   Lesser known but (at least in my experience) more effective and without side effects are bio-identical hormones. However, if you google this on the web, you will find controversy does exist. Commonly used are plant derived hormones including estradiol,  esterone, progesterone and sometimes testosterone. With these the doctor would test your exact hormonal levels and only prescribe just what you need.  These can be prescribed as topical creams, suppositories or little pellets that implanted under the skin of your butt.  While the creams or suppositories are used on a daily or weekly basis the pellets last for about six months.    The biggest challenge seems to be finding a doctor that really understands these therapies and that will customize the recommendations to suit the specific individual.

5) Reduce stress.  Stress is a huge contributor to the aging process in the body.  It is crucial to find ways to keep it in balance.  Very helpful are yoga, exercise, good rest, avoiding excesses, and a healthy diet. Find something you like to to that helps you relax whether it is a walk with your favorite person or dog or that nice hot bath. Since when we are under a lot of stress, weight management becomes more challenging, finding ways to reduce your stress and/or deal with it can be very beneficial.  Get and give Hugs.  Research has shown that good hugs are extremely beneficial to both your physical and mental health.  A good hug  and/or laugh triggers the body to release soothing, healing chemicals which boost your mood and create happiness.  Try for 8 hugs a day and watch your stress levels decline.

Sleep Issues Affecting Your Skin?

Sleep Issues -  Causing Skin Conditions?

Yes, your sleep problems can be causing skin problems. Sleep is our time to internally refresh, restore and heal.  Anything that interrupts this process can lead to the skin looking less than its best.  All of us have gotten up and looked in the mirror after a bad night’s sleep and noted the dark under-eye circles and the dull cast to the skin.  The bad sleep and the diminished skin appearance are directly related.  Anything that triggers poor sleep can make us look, and feel tired and older. 

Inadequate sleep:  whether it is odd working hours, stress, a baby in the house, insomnia, or anything else that prevents us from sleeping, it is going to result in daytime tiredness, under eye circles and a dull cast to the skin.  We can slather on all the lotions and potions we want, but if we don’t address the problem it won’t get any better.  

 If you do shift work, try to create an environment where you can get maximum rest when you do get to sleep.  Consider a device that will create white noise and blank out the potentially interruptive sounds.  Solicit the support of family and friends that “x” hours you need to be sleeping.  Rotating shifts are even harder as your body’s natural Circadian rhythm is fighting with the schedule you need to keep.  Our body’s natural desire is to sleep when it’s dark and be awake in the light.

Stress: we all know the hazards but often don’t think about them showing up on the skin.  They do.  Each of us needs to find ways to deal with the stresses in our life and there are a lot of them.  Family, babies, marriage, divorce, work, bills, friends, all can be stressful.  Even exercise or a change in routine can be stressful to the body and it will need time to adapt.  Stress affects our hormone levels which affects about everything else.  Be prepared with your little emergency kit if stress triggers skin breakouts. Try some form of meditation or relaxation to reduce stress before you go to bed to sleep better. Yes, that cup of herbal tea is a more restful nightcap than anything else. No caffeine of any form including sodas or chocolate for 4 hours prior to bedtime also is a great help.

Baby:  It’s nothing new that a baby in the house will mess with your sleep. So what is a mom supposed to do?  Go with the flow.  If you have are at home with the child, the best answer is probably napping.  When you put the baby down, take a power nap.  This may help you feel more refreshed and rested in the evening when the rest of your family is home and hoping for a bit of companionship and a meal.  If you are back at work and napping when baby does isn’t an option, try catching a power nap at lunch.  Learn to do a bit of self-hypnosis and you can feel rested and refreshed in 15 minutes.  The slow cooker is your friend.  Not only do slow cookers create very tasty and lower glycation meals, you can start it in the morning and forget it. No time to do it in the morning because of family and baby demands?  Consider making it a family together time and assemble it the night before. Get everyone involved and let them help. In the morning, just put it on the heating base and turn it on.

Snoring: Well this was a new one for me. Yes, snoring can mess with your sleep  - and I don’t mean waking your partner and them being grouchy.  Snoring loudly enough to wake yourself or your partner may mean sleep apnea.  Sleep apnea can be a potentially life threatening disorder if untreated.  During the sleep cycle breathing stops and starts multiple times.  The problem is easily recognized in men because they tend to snore loudly. Women though, (my doctor told me) are much sneaker and harder to discover. Women may or may not suffer from loud snoring but still have sleep apnea.  The problem with sleep apnea is the interrupted breathing means that the brain is not getting its routine oxygen supply.  This is what can lead to some pretty nasty health problems. Here is a listing of the symptoms and information from the Mayo Clinic: http://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/sleep-apnea/basics/symptoms/con-20020286  I don’t have many of the classical symptoms like daytime drowsiness, but I do have sleep apnea. Learning and treating this I can avoid the health problems and wake up refreshed in the morning.

Airbrush Makeup

A Sure Way to a Flawless Finish

Airbrushed makeup has been around since the 1980's. First used for special effects and fantasy it quickly spread to use for bridal, special occasion and photography.  More recently it has come to dominate the gold standard for television and film because of its sheer flawless finish.  It stands up to HI-DEF without looking "makeupy" but giving the illusion of flawless skin.  Today it is in growing demand in salons and clinics because of the popularity of high definition photography and selfies in addition to the classical bridal, graduation and special events.  It is certainly a way for a salon/clinic to set themselves apart from the department store counters.

What makes it special?
Airbrush makeup creates a polished look that is simply not achievable with traditional application. In order for the makeup to go through the gun, its particle size is much smaller.  Properly applied, it lays down a very thin layer of makeup that seems to disappear on the skin rather than sink into pores or lines.  Unlike traditional makeup it doesn't absorb into the skin leaving blemishes exposed, rather it diffuses them so they are much less noticeable.  If you ever see airbrushed makeup that looks chalky or heavy, it is not properly applied.

Airbrush makeup is basically water and mineral pigment.  It comes in three formulas water based, silicone based and water proof.  Water based is made of water and finely ground pigments that allow the skin to breathe, is hypoallergenic and has no sticky feel.  The silicone based formulas are designed to be long wearing with no fading. Silicones can slightly fill in depressions are are popular to hide skin imperfections.  Water proof is just that, designed for long term wear and must be removed with a specialty product.  They are selected to use to camouflage/hide tattoos or other skin discolorations for several days at a time. They are not bothered by moisture or sweat.

Airbrush makeup does not transfer.  Slight rubbing or brushing against someone or something does not remove the makeup.  The only way non-waterproof formulas will transfer is if they get wet.  So it is best to blot, not wipe tears or other moisture.

Airbrush application of makeup also helps reduce cross contamination from client to client or artist to client.  With the use of the airbrush gun, the need to use fingers is eliminated along with the risks of spreading germs.

Clinics can benefit from offering these services and also to providing their clients with products and the at home airbrush devices. Clients can learn to airspray their makeup in 10 minutes or less and always have a flawless finish.  If they want the at home devices, and we know they are buying more at home devices all the time, why shouldn't you be the one offering them.  That way you will be able to select the best products for their use and have a little to tuck away for your retirement.  EstheticsNW.com offers Kett Cosmetics airbrush products and kits as well as in clinic training on how to offer these services. For complete information please contact our offices: 888-561-8068.

Sun Protection for Outdoor Workers

Every year thousands of people spend long days working in the sun. If you or a loved one work in the sun, you need to know the facts. Those who work outdoors or those who spend their summer days outdoors are prime candidates for developing not only unattractive brown skin lesions but also actinic keritosis and skin cancer.  The reality is the longer you are exposed to the sun, the higher the risk for developing some form of skin cancer. 

Every year more than 3.5 MILLION cases of basal and squamous cell cancers are diagnosed. Although not fatal, the treatment is uncomfortable and can be disfiguring. Melanoma is the cancer that kills.  In 2014 there are expected to be over 76,000 new cases of melanoma diagnosed. From these there will be over 9700 deaths. This is very sad considering skin cancers are very preventable. 

Wearing loose fitting or UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) clothing and or hats.  Each year more of these products are available on the market so there are a lot of choices.  If you feel you cannot afford to protect yourself with this consider the cost, both financial and physical, of developing skin cancer. Another option might be to put up some sort of canopy over the work area - not an easy thing for say the construction industry but industry has overcome bigger challenges.  

The other big thing is to use SPF daily and have it available to re-apply several times as needed to protect a burn or replace that which has lost its effectiveness due to perspiration or rubbing.  Shop around and find one that doesn't have any greasy feel and is easy to apply - two big complaints.  Those that work outdoors need to reapply every two hours. Web MD notes that the spray form is flammable so should not be applied while smoking or near heat or an open flame. 

Those you love may grouse over these recommendations, but the life they can protect and save is their own.

For more about sunscreens, visit our webpage: http://www.estheticsnw.com/sunscreens.htm

Dynamic Duo for Acne

ENW's Ultimate Scrub is a popular gentle way to fight skin problems.  It is a less irritating scrub than products with stripping agents, benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid or vitamin A.  Depending on your skin, use Ultimate Scrub two to five times weekly.  For some people this isn't quite enough but harsh acne products irritate their skin.  Try ENW's  Zinc & Sulfur Mask.  The Zinc & Sulfur mask is a clay base to absorb excess oil.  Zinc is an excellent healing agent and the sulfur helps destroy the bacteria that causes acne breakouts.

Use tips:
1) Oily skin?  Apply a coat of the mask when you get up in the morning.  Let it sit for 5 minutes - good time for a quick 5 minute workout (dancing, walking, stretching all good).  Now take your shower and use the Ultimate Scrub to assist in removal.  Your skin will feel smoother and non-oily longer during the day. Ladies will find makeup goes on nicer using this technique.

2) Hormonal spots or a deeper painful bump?  Apply a little Zinc and Sulfur mask directly on the spot.  Let dry. Now put an ice cube in a baggie and hold it directly over the problem area for 3-5 minutes.  Do this for a day or two and the inflammation will be greatly reduced and it may even resolve without ever coming to the surface. Using a little Ultimate Scrub will facilitate removal of the mask.

3) Out of control breakout?  Try applying Zinc and Sulfur mask to the problem area (this works great for backs or chest).  While it is still damp, apply a layer of plastic wrap over the mask.  As the mask dries it will help hold the plastic in place.  Now catch some zzzs.  Wearing a t-shirt or other night shirt can help keep the plastic from shifting.  In the morning, shower off using Ultimate Scrub to facilitate removal.

Note: Sun exposure does not improve acne.  It just darkens the skin making the redness show less. But it can also dry the skin entrapping impactions.  Sun exposure will also give you early wrinkles, brown spots and increase the risk of skin cancer.  Pick a sun care product designed for your type of skin.  For oily or problem skins I recommend Mark Lees Essential Daily Protection.  For intensive sun exposure try TiZo.

Brow Designing

Whether you are a consumer or a skin care specialist, most of us are familiar with brow waxing. It is a tidying up of the brow area removing extraneous hair. Brow designing is this and a lot more.  Well shaped brows frame the eyes in the same way your hairstyle frames your face.  The right style makes the most of your features while the wrong style can make you look out of balance or proportion.  The brows play up your eyes.  There are actually mathematical formulas for creating the best balanced brows and we can thank Leonardo daVinci for creating them.  His formulas used in his paintings and in the sculpture of Michelangelo and others have stood the test of time for ageless beauty. We still use them today.  These formulas help you or your technician avoid the rogue’s gallery of infamous eyebrows that make you look sad, surprised, scowling or older than your years. Because when we look in the mirror we see a 2-dimensional image rather than the reality of the 3-dimensional curve it is very beneficial to have someone else assist with the designing as opposed to doing it yourself.   Once shaped if the brows need makeup there are numerous products from the Sty’lo pens that allow you to fill in individual hair strokes to the Brow Design Kits from Cirepil complete with stencils for a quick and professionally groomed look.

In a brow design session the brows are evaluated along with the bone structure and personal preferences. Once the evaluation is complete, then the technician and the client work together to design a brow that will look good today, tomorrow and for years to come.  Other brow challenges like skimpy brows, missing brows, graying brows, and directional hair growth problems and their solutions can also be explored to find the answers that might be best for the individual client. Whatever the client’s preferences, your professional can show you how to make the best of your brows.  Whether you need hair removal, trimming, brow makeup or permanent cosmetics, the answers are there.  Is it time for you or your clients to “spring” into a new look with brow designing?