Permanent Cosmetics

What Estheticians Need to Know About Permanent Cosmetics

 Judith Culp  CIDESCO, NCEA Certified, CPCP

Depending on the state you live/work in the licensure or certification requirements for permanent cosmetics vary greatly.  Many of the people who take up permanent cosmetics have an existing background in cosmetology: esthetics, hairstyling or nails.  Whether you are one of those who choose to take that plunge or if you are just fielding client questions about the industry, there are some things you need to be aware of.

 

No Extremes

Permanent makeup is not the place for anything extreme.  Makeup trends and fads come and go quickly. The client will be wearing this for years.  The last thing they need is something that makes them look dated. Because of the physiological changes to the face as we age, extremes in makeup can actually make us look older.  A conservative approach that can be augmented with cosmetics is a much wiser path and one that will stand the test of time.

Not for Everyone

No technician wants to turn clients away, but just as a client’s hair will limit the type of style that can be effectively employed so too there are some clients that are not good candidates for permanent makeup.  Prior to scheduling any appointment the permanent makeup technician should give your client a thorough consultation and help them make a good decision.  Lifestyle (sun exposure), health issues and other factors must be taken into consideration.  The more UV a client is exposed to the quicker the color will fade. On heavily sun-damaged skin or for those with an outdoor lifestyle, the tattooed color may not hold well.

 

Color Limitations

While there is a wide diversity of pigment colors available the range is not as wide as with topical cosmetics.  And then there is the SKIN factor.  Hair colorists seem to understand this concept well.  When the client comes in and wants her hair color changed the success of achieving the desired color is a combination of factors. Success is based somewhat on the stylist’s skill level but also the color of the client’s hair + the color she wants to achieve.  The same is true for permanent makeup.  Topical cosmetics coat the outside of the skin and create a new look.  Permanent cosmetics show through the epidermal tissue.  The color of that tissue affects the final appearance.  To complicate the matter, our skin tone varies with environment and time of day.

Lip color is the trickiest because of the vascularity of the lip area. All lips have a natural pink tone to them. If the client comes in and says they don’t want a pink tone, their technician needs to have a long chat with them to discuss what it is they do want to achieve.  It is all but impossible to avoid some pink cast to a finished lip color since that is the natural tone of the lip. 

Red tones are very sheer by their chemical nature and do not show up in the bold manner a tube of lipstick can.  They don’t have the opacity to block the natural lip color and the result may not be the true red the client had in mind. The client also needs to remember that the darker the lip color the harder it will be to cover it with a cosmetic.Another thought is the vivid bright red that may be flattering on a younger person may look harsh on a maturing face. Soft, natural enhancement that makes the face more alive is generally the safest approach.

Permanent cosmetic technicians try hard to please the client – sometimes to their own peril.  The client who comes in and requests a wine lip liner is a good example.  Wine has a strong blue cast.  Lips have a natural blue cast.  Blue + more blue = very blue.  If the technician follows the client’s request the end result will be one of those infamous blue lip liners you may have seen.  Likewise the client who wants brown lip color is a disaster waiting to happen.  The end result may look like the client has been sucking on a chocolate bar. Not a pretty thing to be stuck with for years.  Careful consultation and careful color selection is the key to success.

 

All Colors Fade

Every tattoo starts a slow fading process from the time it is healed.  The more the tattoo is protected from UV (the sun, tanning beds and fluorescent lighting) the crisper it will remain.  Tattoos are affected by the same things that cause hair color to fade.  Just as we routinely get our hair color refreshed, so permanent cosmetics and artistic tattoos will need their colors re-enhanced.  Frequency depends on UV exposure, lifestyle, medications and personal body chemistry. Those in the southern part of the US may need more frequent re-enhancements than those in the northern parts.  Other factors that affect fade rate include technician skill, the properties of the individual pigment and technique.  (Sort of the same things that affect the duration of our hair color.)

 

Corrections are a Challenge

I cringe when I hear someone saying that they can just “fix” any procedure that goes awry or take off the makeup if the client doesn’t like it.  Generally keep in mind that with permanent makeup, the client gets what they pay for just as in any other field.  The big difference is this is permanent. All removal forms run the risk of scarring and not all things can be removed. If there is one tiny dot or stroke out of place, this is something that can generally be adjusted. If the procedure is in the wrong place or done with a color that healed extremely poorly, the process is vastly more difficult. Use of removers can leave the skin discolored for months and their use requires special training to minimize skin damage. Permanent makeup should never be undertaken thinking that it can be removed.  It is called permanent for a reason – it’s permanent.  Even when the color fades, if a biopsy is done the faded color molecule is present in the skin.

 

Check credentials

If you have clients looking for a permanent makeup technician have them check credentials and do a thorough technician interview during the consultation process.  They are hiring this person and it is important there be a good level of professional confidence. How long has the technician been practicing? How much training have they had? Do they display current membership in a national trade organization? What about continuing education? This is a fast changing industry and annual continuing education is an important part of staying current.  The more they do their evaluation, the more they will be able to anticipate the type of outcome they can expect.  You may want to evaluate several technicians in your area and have a brief list that you can share with your client to start her investigative process.

 

Permanent cosmetics may have started as a fad in the early 1980’s but it has come into its own as an alternative to total dependency on topical cosmetics. The more the cosmetology specialist understands about this sister field the better we will be able to guide our clients to having a positive life-enhancing experience.

 

steamers

Steamers: Use and Care 

Steamers come in numerous shapes and configurations but all are equally useful. Unfortunately, many estheticians seem to have a love – hate relationship with their steamers.  Some are so devoted to them they run them for 45 minutes out of a 60 minute facial.  Others won’t touch them.  Both are extremes that stem from the need for more information. 

Steaming the face hydrates it, but if over done the result is the “prune” effect.  Most of us have experienced this in a bath tub from too long a soak.  The skin buckles due to hyper-hydration that can actually lead to dehydration. Most manufacturers’ recommend steamers should be used during the cleaning or massing segment of the treatment, about 10-15 minutes.

Positioning of the steamer is also critical.  If the client has allergies, asthma or other respiratory related conditions a steamer can irritate these.  If you wish to use the steamer – back it farther away from the client’s face.  Instead of the recommended 18-24 inches from the steamer wand to the client’s face, try 36 inches or more.  Client comfort is number one.  Technicians in a high-humidity climate have less need for a steamer than those in a more arid environment.  Using a steamer when it is hot and muggy outside, could lead to skin inflammation or irritation.  Caution must be exercised and a thorough knowledge of the client’s skin is important.

A good client history is also important.  Clients may use products they think don’t matter with what service we are offering so it is critical to ask questions.  What are they using? How are they using it?  When did they last use it? These can give us keys to best take care of their skin.  If they are using anti-acne, anti-aging or anti-rosacea products, we know we must be more conservative in the use of the steamer to prevent an inflammatory response.

The other part of using a steamer is proper maintenance.  Steamers should be used with de-ionized water only.  This is sold as distilled water, a different product from spring water or drinking water.  The later two may have minerals in them that could build up on the coils of the steamer heating unit causing the equipment to fail.

Never leave water standing in the steamer.  Most manufacturers’ recommend emptying it daily and all say it should not be left standing over a weekend.  Routine maintenance must also be done.  Monthly the steamer should be cleaned following the manufacturer’s guidelines or the following basic steps:

1. Add two tablespoons of white vinegar and fill to the top with water.
2. Turn on the steamer and let it heat to steaming. Do not turn on the ozone!
3. Let the machine steam for 30 seconds or to the point where it starts sputtering but won’t steam. If the unit hasn’t been wanting to run, this sputtering indicates you now have the vinegar solution throughout the steamer parts.
4. Turn off the steamer and let the vinegar solution rest in the unit until it cools down so that the glass holding tank can be safely handled. Because vinegar tends to have a pungent smell, schedule cleaning for a time when the clinic is not busy or in a utility area away from treatment rooms.
5. When it is cooled to a safe handling temperature, drain the steamer completely, rinse the holding jar and then refill with water. Again let the steamer heat to steaming and operate with steam running for approximately 10 minutes. If there is still an odor, drain the unit and repeat the process.
6. Do not allow the caustic vinegar and water solution to sit on the heating coil without steaming immediately. If left overnight, it will totally corrode the copper coils.
7. Note that there is usually a reset button on steamers for additional safety in the event the steamer runs out of water. If the steamer is not running, check the reset button before you call for help. Most problems occur when these basic cleaning steps are not followed.

Tips to remember:

1. Even distilled water left standing in the steamer for periods of time can cause problems with the coils.  Always empty the steamer.
2. When securing the jar to the steamer base it should have a “snug” fit but not be over tight.  Glass jars expand during the heating process and if over-tightened, they can crack, break or explode. It should not be so loose there is steam escaping at the top, but not too tight either.  A little experimentation will give the best result.
3. If you want to use essential oils they should not be added to steamer water as they will clog the steamer.  Instead just a drop or two should be placed on the felt rim just inside the head of the steamer or in a designated essential oil dispenser. While the oil will stain the felt, it evaporates completely during the steaming process.  A drop of a different oil may be placed on the felt prior to turning it on for the next client.

Judith Culp, CIDESCO Diplomat, NCEA Certified. Contributing Editor Milady’s Standard Esthetics: Advanced. President and instructor NW Institute of Esthetics now focusing on advanced skin care training. http://nwinstitute.estheticsnw.com

judy@estheticsnw.com